Splendid travel narratives of Italy are so abundant that to say The Surprise of Cremona is in a class by itself is no small assertion. What makes it so special? Let’s start with the fact that although a reader can rather easily assemble a sizable library of foreign visitors’ excellently written accounts of sojourns in Venice, Florence, and Rome, books that wander off those deservedly beaten urban paths are fewer and farther between. The unexpected purview of Edith Templeton’s 1954 travel diary—which its subtitle announces as “one woman’s adventures in Cremona, Parma, Mantua, Ravenna, Urbino and Arezzo”—is just one of several qualities that sets it apart. Even in the age of e-books and easy internet searches for forgotten volumes, The Surprise of Cremona is nearly impossible to find, but it is well worth seeking out—just like the best restaurants in strange provincial towns, which the author learns are usually discovered by heading down back streets and hidden alleys. How apt.
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